August 4, 1804
August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified
and cooled the atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and
reached a very narrow part of the river, where the channel is
confined within a space of two hundred yards, by a sand point
on the north, and a bend on the south; the banks in the neighborhood
washing away, the trees falling in, and the channel filled with
buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on the south, where
one of our party passed two years, trading with the Mahas. At
nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite
a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's
encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on
the southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek
on the south, which, like the former, is the outlet of three
ponds, communicating with each other, and forming a small lake,
which is fed by streams from the highlands. At fifteen miles,
we encamped on the south. The hills on both sides of the river
are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other; those of
the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are
without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines,
and near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and
prairies occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered,
near the water, with cottonwood. There has been a great deal
of pumice stone on shore to-day.
August 5, 1804
August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars,
made twenty and a half miles, though the river was crowded with
sandbars. On both sides the prairies extend along the river;
the banks being covered with great quantities of grapes, of
which three different species are now ripe; one large and resembling
the purple grape. We had some rain this morning, attended by
high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that thunder
storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this
season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day
of the shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter color.
We fixed our camp on the north side. In the evening, captain
Clarke, in pursuing some game, in an eastern direction, found
himself at the distance of three hundred and seventy yards from
the camp, at a point of the river whence we had come twelve
miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is overflowed,
and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the
river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current
of the river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole
lowland between the parallel range of hills seems formed of
mud or ooze of the river, at some former period, mixed with
sand and clay. The sand of the neighboring banks accumulates
with the aid of that brought down the stream, and forms sandbars,
projecting into the river; these drive the channel to the opposite
banks, the loose texture of which it undermines, and at length
deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it is
thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling,
and the river changing its bed.
August 6, 1804
August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind
and rain from N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In
the channel separating it from the shore, a creek called Soldier's
river enters; the island kept it from our view, but one of our
men who had seen it, represents it as about [41]forty yards
wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend of the river
towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south, had
turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry.
We again saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and
a half miles distant on the north side. Here the channel of
the river had encroached south, and the old bed was without
water, except a few ponds. The sandbars are still very numerous.
August 7, 1804
August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course
of the last evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the
wind from the north, and encamped on the northern shore, having
rowed seventeen miles. The river is here encumbered with sandbars,
but no islands, except two small ones, called Detachment islands,
and formed on the south side by a small stream.
We dispatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of
our man, Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who
left us on the 4th, under pretence of recovering a knife which
he had dropped a short distance behind, and who we fear has
deserted. We also sent small presents to the Ottoes and Missouris,
and requested that they would join us at the Maha village, where
a peace might be concluded between them.
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