The Journals
of Lewis and Clark: Dates August 7, 1805 - August 9,
1805
The following
excerpts are taken from entries of the Journals of Lewis
and Clark. Dates: August 7, 1805 - August 9, 1805
August 7,
1805
Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose
of making some celestial observations, and also in order
to refresh the men, and complete the drying of the baggage.
We obtained a meridian altitude which gave the latitude
of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now completely
satisfied that the middle branch was the most navigable,
and the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest
fork seems to be the drain of the melting snows of the
mountains, its course cannot be so long as the other
branch, and although it contains now as great a quantity
of water, yet the water has obviously overflowed the
old bed, and spread into channels which leave the low
grounds covered with young grass, resembling that of
the adjoining lands, which are not inundated; whence
we readily infer that the supply is more precarious
than that of the other branch, the waters of which though
more gentle are more constant. This northwest fork we
called Wisdom river.
As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on
board the boats, but we now found it so much diminished,
that we would we able to proceed with one canoe less.
We therefore hauled up the superfluous one into a thicket
of brush where we secured her against being swept away
by the high tide. At one o'clock all set out, except
Captain Lewis who remained till the evening in order
to complete the observation of equal altitudes: we passed
several bends of the river both to the right and left,
as well as a number of bayous on both sides, and made
seven miles by water, though the distance by land is
only three. We then encamped on a creek which rises
in a high mountain to the northeast, and after passing
through an open plain for several miles, discharges
itself on the left, where it is a bold running stream
twelve yards wide. We called it Turf creek, from the
number of bogs and the quantity of turf on its waters.
In the course of the afternoon there fell a shower of
rain attended with thunder and lightning, which lasted
about forty minutes, and the weather remained so cloudy
all night that we were unable to take any lunar observations.
Uneasy about Shannon, we sent R. Fields in search of
him this morning, but we have as yet no intelligence
of either of them. Our only game to-day was one deer.
August 8, 1805
Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning.
Having left one of the canoes, there are now more men
to spare for the chace; and four were sent out at an
early hour, after which we proceeded. We made five miles
by water along two islands and several bayous, but as
the river formed seven different bends towards the left,
the distance by land was only two miles south of our
encampment. At the end of that course we reached the
upper principal entrance of a stream which we called
Philanthropy river. This river empties itself into the
Jefferson on the southeast side, by two channels a short
distance from each other: from its size and its southeastern
course, we presume that it rises in the Rocky mountains
near the sources of the Madison. It is thirty yards
wide at its entrance, has a very gentle current, and
is navigable for some distance. One mile above this
river we passed an island, a second at the distance
of six miles further, during which the river makes a
considerable bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned
about noon with information that he had gone up Wisdom
river till its entrance into the mountains, but could
find nothing of Shannon. We made seven miles beyond
the last island, and after passing some small bayous,
encamped under a few high trees on the left, at the
distance of fourteen miles above Philanthropy river
by water, though only six by land. The river has in
fact become so very crooked that although by means of
the pole which we now use constantly we make a considerable
distance, yet being obliged to follow its windings,
at the end of the day, we find ourselves very little
advanced on our general course. It forms itself into
small circular bends, which are so numerous that within
the last fourteen miles we passed thirty-five of them,
all inclining towards the right; it is however much
more gentle and deep than below Wisdom river, and its
general width is from thirty-five to forty-five yards.
The general appearance of the surrounding country is
that of a valley five or six miles wide, enclosed between
two high mountains. The bottom is rich, with some small
timber on the islands and along the river, which consists
rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and
willow-trees. The high grounds have some scattered pine,
which just relieve the general nakedness of the hills
and the plain, where there is nothing except grass.
Along the bottoms we saw to-day a considerable quantity
of the buffalo clover, the sunflower, flax, green sward,
thistle and several species of rye grass, some of which
rise to the height of three or four feet.
There is also a grass
with a soft smooth leaf which rises about three feet
high, and bears its seed very much like the timothy,
but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it apparently
answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved
some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make
the experiment. Our game consisted of deer and antelope,
and we saw a number of geese and ducks just beginning
to fly, and some cranes. Among the inferior animals
we have an abundance of the large biting or hare fly,
of which there are two species, one black, the other
smaller and brown, except the head which is green. The
green or blowing flies unite with them in swarms to
attack us, and seem to have relieved the eye-gnats who
have now disappeared. The mosquitoes too are in large
quantities, but not so troublesome as they were below.
Through the valley are scattered bogs, and some very
good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is
of a white or bluish white color, and seems to be argilaceous.
On all the three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy,
are immense quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat.
At our camp there was an abundance of rosebushes and
briars, but so little timber that we were obliged to
use willow brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy
which prevented the lunar observations.
On our right is the point of a high plain, which our
Indian woman recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head
from a supposed resemblance to that object. This she
says is not far from the summer retreat of her countrymen,
which is on a river beyond the mountains, and running
to the west. She is therefore certain that we shall
meet them either on this river, or on that immediately
west of its source, which judging from its present size,
cannot be far distant. Persuaded of the absolute necessity
of procuring horses to cross the mountains, it was determined
that one of us should proceed in the morning to the
head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till
he found the Shoshones or some other nation who could
assist us in transporting our baggage, the greater part
of which we shall be compelled to leave without the
aid of horses.
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