The Journals
of Lewis and Clark: Dates September 20, 1805 - September
22, 1805
The following
excerpts are taken from entries of the Journals of Lewis
and Clark. Dates: September 20, 1805 - September 22,
1805
September
20, 1805
Friday 20. Captain Clarke went on through a country
as rugged as usual, till on passing a low mountain he
came at the distance of four miles to the forks of a
large creek. Down this he kept on a course south 60°
west for two miles, then turning to the right, continued
over a dividing ridge where were the heads of several
little streams, and at twelve miles distance descended
the last of the rocky mountains and reached the level
country. A beautiful open plain partially supplied with
pine now presented itself. He continued for five miles
when he discovered three Indian boys, who, on observing
the party, ran off and hid themselves in the grass.
Captain Clarke immediately alighted, and giving his
horse and gun to one of the men went after the boys.
He soon relieved their apprehensions and sent them forward
to the village about a mile off with presents of small
pieces of riband. Soon after the boys had reached home,
a man came out to meet the party, with great caution,
but he conducted them to a large tent in the village,
and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with
a mixture of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers.
The conductor now informed captain Clarke by signs,
that the spacious tent was the residence of the great
chief, who had set out three days ago with all the warriors
to attack some of their enemies towards the southwest;
that he would not return before fifteen or eighteen
days, and that in the meantime there were only a few
men left to guard the women and children. They now set
before them a small piece of buffalo meat, some dried
salmon, berries, and several kinds of roots. Among these
last is one which is round and much like an onion in
appearance and sweet to the taste: it is called quamash,
and is eaten either in its natural state, or boiled
into a kind of soup or made into a cake, which is then
called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a
sumptuous treat; we returned the kindness of the people
by a few small presents, and then went on in company
with one of the chiefs to a second village in the same
plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party
was treated with great kindness and passed the night.
The hunters were sent out, but though they saw some
tracks of deer were not able to procure any thing.
We were detained till ten o'clock before we could collect
our scattered horses; we then proceeded for two miles,
when to our great joy we found the horse which captain
Clarke had killed, and a note apprising us of his intention
of going to the plains towards the southwest, and collect
provisions by the time we reached him. At one o'clock
we halted on a small stream, and made a hearty meal
of horse flesh. On examination it now appeared that
one of the horses was missing, and the man in whose
charge he had been, was directed to return and search
for him. He came back in about two hours without having
been able to find the horse; but as the load was too
valuable to be lost, two of the best woodsmen were directed
to continue the search while we proceeded. Our general
course was south 25° west through a thick forest of
large pine, which has fallen in many places, and very
much obstructs the road. After making about fifteen
miles we encamped on a ridge where we could find but
little grass and no water. We succeeded, however, in
procuring a little from a distance, and supped on the
remainder of the horse.
On descending the heights of the mountains the soil
becomes gradually more fertile, and the land through
which we passed this evening, is of an excellent quality.
It has a dark gray soil, though very broken, and with
large masses of gray free-stone above the ground in
many places. Among the vegetable productions we distinguished
the alder, honeysuckle, and huckleberry, common in the
United States, and a species of honeysuckle, known only
westward of the Rocky mountains, which rises to the
height of about four feet, and bears a white berry.
There is also a plant resembling the chokecherry, which
grows in thick clumps eight or ten feet high, and bears
a black berry with a single stone of a sweetish taste.
The arbor vitę too, is very common, and grows to a great
size, being from two to six feet in diameter.
September
21, 1805
Saturday 21.
The free use of food, to which he had not been accustomed,
made captain Clarke very sick both yesterday evening
and during the whole of to-day. He therefore sent out
all the hunters and remained himself at the village,
as well on account of his sickness as for the purpose
of avoiding suspicion and collecting information from
the Indians as to the route.
The two villages consist of about thirty double tents,
and the inhabitants call themselves Chopunnish or Pierced-nose.
The chief drew a chart of the river, and explained,
that a greater chief than himself, who governed this
village and was called the Twisted-hair, was now fishing
at the distance of half a day's ride down the river:
his chart made the Kooskooskee fork a little below his
camp, a second fork below, still further on a large
branch flowed in on each side, below which the river
passed the mountains: here was a great fall of water,
near which lived white people, from whom were procured
the white beads and brass ornaments worn by the women.
A chief of another band made a visit this morning, and
smoked with captain Clarke. The hunters returned without
having been able to kill any thing; captain Clarke purchased
as much dried salmon, roots, and berries as he could,
with the few articles he chanced to have in his pockets,
and having sent them by one of the men and a hired Indian
back to Captain Lewis, he went on towards the camp of
the Twisted-hair. It was four o'clock before he set
out, and the night soon came on; but having met an Indian
coming from the river, they engaged him by a present
of a neckcloth, to guide them to the Twisted-hair's
camp. For twelve miles they proceeded through the plain
before they reached the river hills, which are very
high and steep. The whole valley from these hills to
the Rocky mountain is a beautiful level country, with
a rich soil covered with grass: there is, however, but
little timber, and the ground is badly watered: the
plain is so much lower than the surrounding hills, or
so much sheltered by them, that the weather is quite
warm, while the cold of the mountains was extreme. From
the top of the river hills they proceeded down for three
miles till they reached the water side, between eleven
and twelve o'clock at night: here we found a small camp
of five squaws and three children, the chief himself
being encamped, with two others, on a small island in
the river: the guide called to him and he soon came
over. Captain Clarke gave him a medal, and they smoked
together till one o'clock.
We could not set out till eleven o'clock, because being
obliged in the evening to loosen our horses to enable
them to find subsistence, it is always difficult to
collect them in the morning. At that hour we continued
along the ridge on which we had slept, and at a mile
and a half reached a large creek running to our left,
just above its junction with one of its branches. We
proceeded down the low grounds of this creek, which
are level, wide, and heavily timbered, but turned to
the right at the distance of two and a half miles, and
began to pass the broken and hilly country; but the
thick timber had fallen in so many places that we could
scarcely make our way. After going five miles we passed
the creek on which captain Clarke had encamped during
the night of the 19th, and continued five miles further
over the same kind of road, till we came to the forks
of a large creek. We crossed the northern branch of
this stream, and proceeded down it on the west side
for a mile: here we found a small plain where there
was tolerable grass for the horses, and therefore remained
during the night, having made fifteen miles on a course
S. 30° W.
The arbor vitę increases in size and quantity as we
advance: some of the trees we passed to-day being capable
of forming pirogues at least forty-five feet in length.
We were so fortunate also as to kill a few pheasants
and a prairie wolf, which, with the remainder of the
horse, supplied us with one meal, the last of our provisions,
our food for the morrow being wholly dependent on the
chance of our guns.
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